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Say "Berkeley" and peace, love, and free speech pop into mind. The place affectionately nicknamed "Berzerkeley" is actually a hip urban village filled with intellectuals, gourmets (affectionately known as "foodies"), artists and yes liberals. I came to Berkeley in 1986 - fresh faced college freshman straight from suburban California and fell in love with this town. Out of sheer determination to maximize my stay in this little peace of heaven - I stuck around for three degrees and am proud to have been a 12-year resident. Along the way, I met my life partner, got married, and made some very dear friends. Today I live in Los Angeles - a city for which my affection has grown, but every chance I get, I head north to get a dose of Berkeley. |
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What to do if you only have a couple of days in Berkeley? Plenty. Most of it involves enjoying great food with beautiful and sometime funky sceneries for a backdrop. Not fancy restaurants (although we have our share of those - I remember when they closed off Shattuck Ave because Bill Clinton decided to drop in at Chez Panisse - the restaurant that started the Californian cuisine trend - for a bite to eat), but lots of wonderful neighborhood eateries. Here's what I would do if I only had two days in Berkeley. |
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Day 1: I'd start off day one with a stroll to the "gourmet ghetto" for my Cheeseboard fix. The apricot muffin and currant scone are divine! I'd probably also pick up a loaf of the cheesebread of the day for a mid-afternoon. Next, I'd stroll a couple of stores down the street to the French Hotel Café and order a cup of foamy latte (way better than Starbucks and a reminder of why we need to support small businesses). There is no better way to spend a Berkeley morning than to sit outside of the French Hotel, read a paper, and enjoy the street scene. This is my ritual whenever I get a chance to visit Berkeley. |
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After breakfast, go across the street to Black Oak Books - a great independent bookstore. For lunch, backtrack a block to Cha-Am - a great Thai restaurant and a place where we had spent many pleasant evenings with big groups of friends. Be sure to order the fresh roll and the tomkaigai (coconut lemongrass soup). Another favorite Thai restaurant is Plearn's on University Ave. In college, Brian and I saved up what little money we had all week and splurged it on a feast at Plearn's. If you haven't developed a taste for Thai, Berkeley will make a convert out of you. Walking through the U.C. campus is a great way to spend the afternoon. Don't expect the usual bucolic college campus. This is a true urban campus where you can people watch for hours. For dinner, your choices are many. One of my favorites is Cafe Venezia on University Ave. Brian and I celebrated our first wedding anniversary here. |
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Day 2: Please go to Bette's Oceanview Diner on 4th Street and order the chocolate soufflé pancake (I never did and regretted it since moving away). 4th Street is only a short drive to Cesar Chavez Park in the Berkeley Marina. We used to bring our sheltie, "Guinness", here for big runs. He made many canine friends while we took in amazingly gorgeous views of "the City" (aka San Francisco). After a walk on the Bay, you'll probably be chilled to the bone. Head inland to College Avenue for lunch. There are many good eateries here, but I like La Mediterraneé for the chicken pomegranate and the outdoor seating. Don't miss Tilden Park. Great hikes with panoramic views of both San Francisco and the East Bay. For dinner, oh so many choices and so little time. If you want something upscale, try Lalime's on Gilman or Rivoli on Solano (make sure to make reservations ahead of time). For something funkier, try the Blue Nile on Telegraph for an Ethiopian feast eaten with your fingers (no utensils). We took Brian's family to the Blue Nile after his college graduation. They still remember it after all these years. Go to a late movie after dinner (the UC Theatre, a true Berkeley institution, offers classics and underground films). Make sure to pick up a Top Dog on the way home. It's the perfect way to wrap up a day in Berkeley. |
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This is what I would do. There are many variations on the theme. But for a short visit, you've got to experience the food and to stroll through some of the loveliest parts of the Bay Area. Great food and beautiful surroundings have a way of mellowing people out and bringing them together. If Berkeley suits you, stay longer and experience the intellectual and cultural life in town. Be warned. Thousands upon thousands before you have been seduced by Berkeley. Once you come, it's hard to leave. It took the job opportunity of a lifetime to pry me away. And trust me - I plan on coming back someday... See you around town! |
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